

- #Import recording into fuzzmeasure upgrade#
- #Import recording into fuzzmeasure pro#
- #Import recording into fuzzmeasure mac#
If the Hz or anything is too low/high, go back to iTunes and adjust your EQ settings. This is of debate I hear about the level of hearing. When they started to research they sat people down and said, listen to this 1000 Hz tone, now how much louder does x Hz need to be to sound equivalent. Humans need more or less boost depending on the average volume. You want it to be relatively flat for you level of 1000 Hz listening be it the 60 dB band or the 80 dB band. Go back and try again with a lower mic gain ('volume') or a lower sound output volume. If you have any signals over 0 dB you need to either turn down your volume or you didn't unclip your mic. Rename recording 1.aiff (should be file on desktop) Play the sweep (s.aiff) only ONCE in iTunes, which your speakers will output and your mic will record - This is the most key point of the whole process Goto iTunes using keyboard (not mouse because the click sound will fudge your sweep) Turn off the buttons in lower left so won't loop play always, you only want ONE sweep I used a USB skype headset with a boom micĪdjust the input volume so it doesn't clip (max out blue bar) You may want to use a compression mic designed for measurement and an xlr firewire box If using headphones place the mic close inside the earcup Position your mic about 3 feet or so away from your speaker If speakers hook up your amp to the 3.5 mm jack out I suggest if you're using headphones to hook them into your 3.5 mm jack out You may need to get a standalone D/A converter like one by edirol/roland. This may be difficult because you can't really connect a speaker wire to your usb port.
#Import recording into fuzzmeasure mac#
Save to the desktop or someplace to keep it because you can use it laterĬonnect your ouput device to your mac (speakers, headphones) Similar to overclocking a processor for extra gains.
#Import recording into fuzzmeasure upgrade#
The nice thing about tweaking the EQ is you can make any speaker, even a $20 pair of headphones, sound a MILLION times better, which will save you money so you won't have to upgrade to better speakers so soon or AT ALL! Its' a way of maximizing and optimizing your sound output. When setting up custom sound profiles you'll loose some juice, so the amp will give you that lost voltage back from the preamp adjustments. Beyer dynamic is a good headphone company. They also use kevlar I've heard in cones. Some speakers use wood, but I'd be surprised if that sounds good because the density of wood varries. If you can't afford those check out materials like neodynium or aluminum. I know that STAX speakers use mylar or a elecrostatic discharge like martin logans. €¢ When looking for speakers you'll usually want a cone material that has low distortion. €¢ More expensive speakers (generally the more money you spend you'll get better sound, more accurate, more details)
#Import recording into fuzzmeasure pro#
€¢ alternative to iTunes is Audio Hijack Pro a great tool €¢ A freeware program called Audio In you can get on €¢ FuzzMeasure Application (you can purchase it too, good idea) ($250, or $150 for students, e-mail Chris for more info).

Key is to find the balance point between loudness and clarity. Around 100 dB is starts to flatten out, but thats around where that volume level starts to hurt, which is bad.

I know my old Alpine head unit had a setting for low volume bass boost. This is noticable in the lower 1000 Hz dB curves, which would require a very large bass boost to retain the bass. Notice in the above graph that for a given sound curve the bass or trebble may need to be higher to get a balanced curve. I'll definitely try the bass hunter technique on this space just to see what it tells me, but would want to get my basic treatments up first I would think.Here's a guide to help you flatten out your response curve with minimal tools using OS X. The new space is 21'x31' with a peaked roof up to 18' at the peak, so I'm able to have my monitors be placed away from all walls and actually have corners available for trapping. My last space was in NYC and was basically 10'x10'x10', forcing monitors against a wall. So I'm just now hearing the eventual "sound" of the space and will soon be able to start acoustic testing (and thus to make final decisions on monitor placement etc.).Īs always, part of the decision for determining the listening position is based on ergonomics and workflow, within the confines of the space. I post this now because I'm currently converting a garage to a studio space, with drywall just going up over the weekend. I wouldn't suggest one test to be convincing on it's own, but at the same time I have always started at the 38% point along the longest wall as my listening position and also confirmed this with Fuzzmeasure (haven't tried the Bass Hunter technique except for finding the best position for a sub woofer).
